Tuesday, December 5, 2017

History of color part 2

    Where previously in human history, purples were reserved for royalty, the new dyes made this once precious and hard to attain color available to the masses. These new easily produced and inexpensive dyes were changing the very color of the landscape. At one time the lack of color in one’s attire quickly revealed your social status. Color has always been used to indicate social, religious, and political affiliations.
 
  What follows is a breakdown in western fashion from 1790 to 1920 as regards to colors available and used. My main reference material is a book I consider an absolute necessity for the historical costumer; The Evolution of Fashion by Margot Hamilton Hill and Peter A. Bucknell. This amazing book covers in detail over 46 separate periods in fashion dating from 1066 to 1930. Not only does it cover colors and fabrics used for both men and women, but it also has detailed diagrams of actual pattern pieces. You can purchase this book online from https://www.amazon.com/Evolution-Fashion-Pattern located within the
United States. 

    One of my favorite places to buy used books is https://www.thriftbooks.com/ If you need to do research on an obscure era, you will find google a highly reliable search engine. Additional help can be found at many local libraries  They are not limited to the books on the shelves. At least in the United States, they have public computers connected to the Internet for patrons and the librarians are skilled in locating information as well as subscriptions to various universities' libraries.

Neoclassical


  In 1805 the neoclassical influence was rampant in Western fashion; it was also referred to as the King George III period. The fabrics available were wools, muslins, and soft silks. Colors were very conservative for both men and women; with the masculine attire dominated by dark blue, black, or bottle green for their coats and unimaginative white for their breeches. What little color in the men’s garments was restricted to the waistcoat. At this time the development and introduction of bleach made the classically influenced white dresses that were universally worn by the fashionable females, easy to maintain. These high-waisted fluid gowns owed any color available to the trimmings and accessories used to adorn the costumes.


Regency


By 1815 the Regency period was beginning to commence; while the fabrics remain the same, many of the cambrics and muslins now featured delicate all over embroidery in sprig patterns. In color, white still predominates but soft and light colors have begun to appear in female fashions. As the era progresses pinks, blues, yellows, and greens are seen more frequently. The men’s clothing while still reflecting the previous period, now also utilizes light shades for the breeches even though white is the most common.




Late Regency

In 1825 as the Regency era begins to wane, commonsense is beginning to prevail. No longer are women expected to wear flimsy garments irregardless of the temperature of the season. Heavier more somber woolens in silks reign in the winter with the lighter cottons and muslins of early Regency reserved for the summer. 





While the debutantes, are
still promising buds in the lightest pastels; the young married matrons are choosing lilacs, pinks, amber, and the not quite so young matrons are favoring Indian red, browns, and blacks. 

 


For the men day attire remains basically
unchanged while for evening wear black
pantaloons, trousers or breeches are teamed 
with a black or dark blue coat and a black 
or white waistcoat. 
  




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